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wellpresseddaisy

June 2026

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Jun. 23rd, 2026 02:45 am
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May wind up delving into bra making once I've cleared my WIP pile of yardage for garment sewing.

Found some cute patterns that could work. Now I need the time for 87 toiles and figuring out how to deal with asymmetry (had a biopsy in my 20s that made it more pronounced). Which is why it'll happen once I sew down my stash.

(The Lilypa Designs Mysa bralette https://www.lilypadesigns.com/digital-patterns/mysa-bralette-pattern-core is currently free and apparently a good beginner pattern)

Also diving into style typing systems, less out of a need to find my personal style and more out of curiosity because the cult of personality that grows around them is so interesting.

Source: wellpresseddaisy https://wellpresseddaisy.tumblr.com/post/820166711172022272/may-wind-up-delving-into-bra-making-once-ive

Cadw sat heavily in the big chair behind the massive desk, propped his head in his hands, and let the horror of the day wash over him. What had he got himself into? What had been concealed from Andromeda, aside from near everything about the boy now in his charge? He’d been treated unforgiveably by the magical world for some time, but the more personal slights and injuries…he’d no idea how the child continued to function. How could a child grow up hated and have any kind of positive or even functioning self-esteem? Any sense of the worth of his own life?

And he was a child still. The family magic made that thoroughly clear the moment that connection with him slammed home. He’d have picked up on Harry in any case, but the way he felt… Seeing him next to his friends certainly thumped it into one’s reality. They both felt like adulthood lurked just about the corner. Harry simply didn’t and it sent all his protective instincts raging. Why hardly mattered in the here and now. It changed his whole approach to Harry. If he hadn’t noticed… [[MORE]]

If he hadn’t noticed, then he’d likely have mucked everything up. He’d have treated Harry as more of a nascent adult than the boy would be capable of handling and Harry would never feel safe or comfortable with him. If there was one thing he’d learned raising his younger siblings, it was that children needed to feel safe and attached. He wouldn’t need the kind of very physical care a young child did, but he would, very likely, need more supervision and attention than he'd ever had before.

He’d have to tread carefully, but he could plan from here. Children needed different handling, gentler for a start. A child like Harry, who apparently had been handled terribly from infancy would require even gentler handling still. Oh, not letting him run loose as he had without anyone caring enough to stop him. Firm, consistent boundaries, established immediately were the answer. Harry would resent him, at least at the beginning. He knew this. He knew all of it from having to take over immediately from his own parents and older brothers when they were killed. His sister had more or less destruction tested his resolve and his love for months. It was only now, as adults, that she’d told him any of what it was like without him there, how the house had been while he studied at Oxford. He had a sinking feeling that some things may have been worse for Harry.

Cadw considered the next few months and groaned. Some of what he’d heard today finally made sense of his usual end of June wobbliness. The anxiety building and building from Easter on, ending in at least one day of flat panic never had made sense to him, hitting as it had seemingly out of nowhere. In nineteen-ninety-two. He’d invaded the sanctuary of the day room to ask a few pointed questions after seeing the scarring on Harry’s hand. Miss Granger and Mr. Weasley were surprisingly forthcoming regarding their yearly exploits. As Miss Granger explained, her parents knew everything anyway and she didn’t think he’d want to distress Mrs. Weasley by passing most of it on, so it only seemed fair to give him the information he wanted.

Bright girl, that one, and utterly devoid of shame when it came to helping her best friend.

Giving in to impulse, he rose and went to the Floo niche. A few feet above the fire, it allowed him to make a call without crouching on the hearth. He pulled a chair over, tossed Floo powder into the embers banked there and called,

“The Aerie, Wales. Caro.”

His sister answered allmost immediately.

“Everything all right?”

Her voice had his shoulders relaxing for something like the first time since he’d stepped foot in England.

“You weren’t asleep, were you?” The mantle clock showed ten.

“I thought you might need to talk tonight.”

Simple, direct. She always spoke directly with him.

“I’m doubting myself tonight.” He couldn’t quite keep the despairing note from his voice.

“Over?”

He heard a chair shift about on her side of the connection as she settled in while he tried to formulate an answer.

“Look, I have a lovely cup of tea and all the time in the world for you. We can go all night if we need to, and if you need me I can be there in a few hours. Even if you say you don’t, I may turn up anyway.”

Cadw sighed, vaguely regretting his impulsive call. She would simply turn up on the doorstep at a thoroughly unsociable hour and harass him in person.

“I should never have sent you off to non-magical Oxford. We all should have run screaming the minute you said Psychology.”

“Mm,” she sipped tea. “And I can smell dragon dung from miles away. Especially from you.”

“I don’t know if I have it in me to deal with both a child ripped away from his Paterfamilias twice and the wretched political mess I’ve landed myself in the middle of.”

“Twice?” He could hear her sit up and the sharp note of interest in her voice.

“If Sirius didn’t have something to do with siring the child, then I’ll eat my Master’s thesis. Adoption, my foot. Harry was his just as much as he was James and Lily Potter’s. He looks—”

“Everyone says exactly like his father.”

“Only if James Potter lost several inches in height and a good bit of weight, developed the Black family facial structure, and had ear surgery. The Potter hair is there, I’ll grant you that, and his glasses are completely awful, but he’s a Black. And likely some Prewett in the mix. His best friend is a Weasley, but his mother is a Prewett and he carries the line. It’s subtle, but it’s there.” Cadw wished he’d thought to ask for a tea tray before locking up for the night. “This is going to sound completely mad, but he still…the family magic is insisting that he isn’t as near adulthood as his age would imply.”

“Mm,” she hummed. “Bad childhood? Do you know anything about that?”

“Neglect, definitely. The contents of his trunk had Mrs. Harris looking incredibly grim and the maid sniffling. He’s had to do for himself in most ways, it sounds like. Mrs. Weasley tries to be there for him, and so have other friends’ parents, but I got the impression that he…well, he doesn’t particularly trust adults.”

“I’ll make him a badge.” Caro laughed drily. “We can have a fort in the garden.”

“I know that he was housed by his mother’s people and that the Weasley boy he’s friends with looks grim every time he thinks about it. I also know he hasn’t had any kind of reasonable support by most of the adults in his life, at home or at school. I got a bit more from his friends this evening, mostly about their school experience. They couldn’t keep it back any longer, I think, and I’m someone who can actually do something about it.”

“Which, even if Hogwarts has had some positives for him, you are viewing in the worst possible light because you hate boarding schools on principle, especially for children under fifteen.” She sounded amused.

“Children ought to be kept at home.” He couldn’t help sounding short. “I have no problem with day schools and we have the means to make every school a day one. There isn’t any reason for an eleven-year-old, or, god forbid, an eight-year-old to be away from home all term time with dodgy supervision.”

“And both the child and everything you’ve heard about his life…wait a…why are his friends telling you?”

“Harry is currently passed out in the nursery sick room, which we are very delicately not calling the nursery anything, and has been passed out since this afternoon, roughly two minutes after putting him into the carriage at Gringotts. It is, apparently, something he does at the end of each appalling year he’s been at school. Exhaustion, yearly, and no one thought it concerning.” Cadw felt like spitting tacks. He knew the spell for it, in any case.

“You are going to go through that school like salts through a goose,” Caro murmured.

“Don’t be ridiculous,” he snapped. “Geese don’t eat salts and you certainly cannot force a goose to eat anything it does not wish to eat.”

“Why don’t…are you certain you don’t want me to come just yet?”

“Not just yet, please. I’d like to give Harry a chance to come down from his yearly brush with death and I will explain that before I inflict the wider family on him. He’s…I got the distinct impression that he’s trying very hard not to be…fragile.”

Caro groaned. “And we know how that goes. You can absolutely tell me to bog off, but could you tell me everything from today from entering England? I have a feeling it’s important.”

“They held me up at the border, for one. I had to get the Welsh government involved to get through, and it wasn’t just what happened when Father and Mother and our brothers were killed. Someone very much did not want me taking custody of Harry. I was late getting to the bank; he’d already taken the ring and…I honestly have no idea what happened there. I walked in to the room and there was Harry on the floor, all over blood, with his friends and Mrs. Weasley who was in the middle of a valiant attempt to clean him up. Something about the scar and his forehead and a screaming phantasm. I’m hoping to get a bit more from Gringotts tomorrow.” He paused, pinching the bridge of his nose.

“Well, that’s certainly an introduction.” Caro sounded entirely too entertained. “What did you do?”

“Sounded like an utter idiot. I said something like ‘I’ll be beating them off with sticks in a few years’ before I pulled myself together.”

Caro spluttered tea, choking on laughter.

“Yes, we can all have a laugh at my expense. Harry then showed that he’d learned manners somewhere, apologized for being unable to get up off the floor, and made introductions as best he could. I got everyone back here as soon as possible. Harry passed out completely on the way. I think his friends…it sounds like it was a thoroughly awful year for everyone at Hogwarts. They…his mother’s people apparently hated both magic and Harry for having it.”

“I had one of those feelings.” Caro sighed deeply. “So he lost his parents and went to family, but family who very much didn’t want him. That’s…that is going to be an unholy mess to sort through.”

“It gets even better.” He couldn’t help the sarcasm. “The utter mess I became very June? That was the family magic going very thoroughly bonkers because the child nearly died every year from eleven on. His first year was a possessed teacher, his second was a basilisk, the third involved sodding dementors, fourth year had the Tri-Wiz so I got to spend from October on having the wibbles, and last year included a teacher determined to torture him with a Black quill *and *the Ministry assault course. So you have a child likely desperate to be loved, or at the very least not hated, catapulted into danger after danger and then praised for nearly dying to save everyone else. Or, apparently more recently, marked out as a liar until the truth could no longer be denied and then castigated for not doing enough.”

Caro groaned. “Why are the English such nitwits? All heroic nobility? Just go on a quest to recover a magic comb and have done with it and leave the children to be children.”

“I don’t think we can blame the English only for this one. It’s the perfect storm, isn’t it? And he sorted into the House of heroic nobility and chivalry.”

“Right, can you burn down a stone-built castle, do you think? It’s empty right now, yes? Siege engines at dawn?” The light tone she used faltered at the last. “I have never been happier that you told Hogwarts to bog off when they came knocking.”

Cadw have a short bark of laughter. “I don’t think we need to go that far. I keep getting the urge to go buy every soft toy available, immediately, but I don’t think it would be terribly well received a the moment.”

“Right now? He’d never get near them if the neglect was bad enough. I think it likely there’s a large crate of things with a ‘Not for Harry’ label pasted across the top somewhere in his psyche. Look, just…be your incredibly and horrifically annoying self. You do actually know what you’re doing with children, especially when there was a less than optimal childhood involved. You got us through it intact.”

“Can I do it again, though?”

“That is entirely up to you. If I know you, though, you already have the start of a plan because you’re a mad bastard that way.”

He snorted at that. “Yes, I have. He curled into me when I picked him up. Just…instant trust, Caro.”

“And there’s your heart gone, if it wasn’t already when he summoned his nice manners while all over blood and concussed. You, sir, are a wet mess.”

“Probably, yes. Thank you, Caro. I shouldn’t keep you up any later.”

“Says the sleep obsessed. I should probably warn Harry about all your overbearing ways,” she teased.

“I won’t object if you want to write him. I think he could use as many friendly voices as he can get. And you can commiserate over me sending people to bed and nagging about overshoes.”

“I know where you keep your underclothes and am willing to divulge that information if you bring up overshoes again.”

“You know where I keep my decoy underclothes. Do you think me foolish enough to leave anything like that unguarded? With you and your brothers trying your damndest to get rid of me those first six months? I’m a step ahead, my girl.”

“Ass,” she said, without heat. “If you need me, even if it’s just for moral support, you tell me immediately.”

“I will, you horror. I’ll let you and Ger know when we’d appreciate a visit.”

“And I’ll send Harry a note…and perhaps a very snazzy badge, as well. Just to remind you.”

“You’re a terrible influence. Get some sleep?”

“Yes, you fussbudget. I love you.”

“I love you too, Caro.” They closed the connection at the same time.

Cadw went out of the study and across the hall to the stairs. As he walked up, intent on getting some rest himself, he felt better about the whole mess. Politics could go hang; he had higher priorities.

Source: wellpresseddaisy https://wellpresseddaisy.tumblr.com/post/783540172587499520/use-any-means-pt-14

I kind of figured out what on god's green earth to do with the US in The Ton AU and square it with canon to a certain extent. Never thought I'd need a degree in the history of colonization to write a silly bit of fanfic, but here we are.
  • There are technically 2 versions of the magical US.
  • They were set to split as they should have in the 1690s, but then a certain number of people decided that no, they didn't actually want to do that.
  • So you have what are referred to as the Tribal Territories on the wholly magical side and MACUSA on the mixed side.
  • The Tribal Territories are administered by the local tribal council. They allowed many of the cities/communities that had already been built to continue existing.
  • MACUSA deal with any magical person living in the non-magical world. They're basically 'the real world'.

Mostly, I finally had to figure it out because Eglantine Hinchcliffe (the future E.H. Carruthers, chap 23 long ago), let me know that Hal (darling, wonderful Hal) introduced her to some of his friends in the Territories while she was traveling over there and she had just the most delightful time once she got over the shock.

She didn't think dancing like that was legal in England! And their skirts!

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 05:42 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)
I’m using the floorplan for the former No. 41 Grovesner Square found here:

https://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol40/pt2/pp117-166#h3-0051

for Grimmauld place in...just about every AU fic I'm writing.

For the posh!Sirius with bonus happy Kreacher content AU.
Very handy site. Also you cannot make me believe the Blacks had some pokey town house. Oh no, Sirius and Regulus used to sneak into the ballroom and slide about in stocking feet.
In case you can’t use the link:
imgbox

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 05:10 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

Catholic students attending Hogwarts have to get a dispensation from Rome to go. Not because the Church has an issue with magic, but because they won’t be able to fulfill their weekly obligation to attend Mass.

While Hogwarts technically has a non-denominational chapel, it’s currently being used as an excellent place to store firewood. No one has asked to have a service in there for generations, nor do they still have a chaplain. The last chaplain at Hogwarts served at some point in the early 18th century, but no one really liked him and students weren’t complaining that chapel was no longer compulsory.

Rome put her foot down at that point (once they found out…and they always find out) and began requiring a dispensation to attend, necessitating Paperwork.

(There isn’t much the Church loves (beside the BVM) more than paperwork and bureaucracy.)

It’s mostly a formality. Usually this would be handled at the parish level (pastors have the power to give a dispensation for the weekly obligation) but it’s enough students and there may still be some Feelings about the Reformation.

Yes, there is a form.

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 04:32 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

HP fanfic trait is that I invent wildly ridiculous ways for the whole Voldemort + horcrux situation to be dealt with because I’d rather write about the magical Season and Social Crimes.

Harry Potter panicking because people keep trying to get him Alone and What About His Virtue? is way more entertaining than Harry Potter being kidnapped and tortured.

(Harry doesn’t actually have to worry about any of it because Ron and Hermione have his back. Ron is big enough to make people leave and Hermione is mean enough to make them hurt if they don’t. Harry hasn’t noticed yet.)

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 04:31 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

Severus Snape plays the ukelele. He felt he had to select at least one of the instruments the older students in Slytherin thought so terribly elegant, and the ukelele was 1) affordable and 2) portable. He considered a banjolele (a banjo the size of a ukelele), but Narcissa threatened to throw him into Black Lake if he got one.

She taught him piano because she thought the older students were ridiculous and easily taken in.

(The mania for the accordion, crumhorn, banjo, etc. only started when an upper class muggleborn in the early 1900s managed to convince the population of Slytherin that of course those instruments were the last word in elegance. Why, the Prince himself plays the banjo!)

(The Prince did not play the banjo)

In any case, the ukelele let him fit in with some of the other Slytherins and had some added benefits.

To whit: it was very easy to accompany yourself while singing. Especially the songs of the 1920s and 1930s, which delighted his Nan.

Narcissa found less delight in his newfound hobby, mostly because he sang things like I Want to Be Bad, Making Whoopee, Let’s Misbehave, and I’m a Bear in a Lady’s Boudoir.

Severus became intimately familiar with her silencing and stinging hexes. She could identify any of those songs by the first few notes, like an especially nerve-wracking parlor game.

Her Slytherin Musical Evenings were never quite the same once Severus discovered the ukelele.

(Of course she hosted Musical Evenings. Slytherin House was a microcosm of the Society over which she would eventually reign. She also hosted teas, afternoon dances, and the occasional picnic. No one quite knew how she managed so many Outstandings on her OWLs and NEWTs since she seemed to spend more time event planning than studying.)

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 03:42 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

I realized last night why the Wizarding World is so strange and why it doesn’t feel quite real: Rowling essentially took the Upper Ten Thousand of English society and made them magical. It’s an insular community with bizarre class structures because there really aren’t any.

In Rowling’s world, as she constructed it, everyone goes to the same school. So a shopkeeper’s child is rubbing elbows with the Malfoys of the world. That child could be just as pure blooded as a Malfoy, too. Her world has 0 real class distinctions, which would be interesting if it was intentional, because we don’t see those children in the books. We don’t meet the kids of people who go to Hogwarts but live and work in Diagon Alley.

Everyone we meet seems to have 1) family working in the Ministry or 2) independent wealth. Where are the Fortescues or the Borgins or the kid whose parents own Flourish and Blott’s? They don’t have to be a main character, but a mention would have helped to round out the world she presented. As it stands, we’re told Hogwarts is open to all, but we don’t see that in the text (unless I missed something).

It’s one of those weird little bits of world building that gets overlooked because ‘it’s a children’s book series’. But a good editor should have picked up on this as the series progressed.

This is one of the problems with letting authors loose without a good bit of editorial oversight once they get popular.

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 02:12 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

I’ve been reading a few different books that got me thinking about the HP Ton/The Season universe. I’m up to the draining of the Fens in A Time Traveler’s Guide to Restoration England and…would the magical world have drained the fenlands? Would they have finished enclosing farmlands?

I don’t think they would have drained the Fens, or at least not to the level they’ve been drained. For one, I don’t see the population booming to the point that would require draining for farmland and for another, the magical world doesn’t need to extract every ounce of value from their land.

I also like the idea of a semi-aquatic group of people who live in the Fens. They were real people before the draining project. Why wouldn’t there be water-based magicals?

On the enclosure project…I can see those areas that historically had enclosed fields staying that way. Perhaps the other counties would take a halfsies approach? Some land is enclosed and some isn’t. Grazing rights, tenancy, etc. would remain as they were (for the most part) before enclosure.

The other book, A Visitor’s Guide to Jane Austen’s England, got me thinking about canal travel. I’d forgotten all about the canal system. I can see older people, especially, being fond of canal travel. It’s possibly slower (port tunnels exist that act a bit like portkeys for vehicles, but it’s still a boat), but it’s smoother than rail travel and you also don’t have to train a horse to go through a port tunnel on the turnpike.

Cherry Ripe

Nov. 9th, 2023 02:09 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

“Would you kindly sod off, Headmaster?” Severus growled.

He knew going into the staff room for a digestif with Minerva would prove to be a mistake. For one, the coffee was appalling. For another, it gave Dumbledore a prime opportunity to corner him.

Minerva, the traitor, sniggered into her substandard coffee.

“It’s such a very small request, Severus. Miniscule, even. And think how much joy you could bring into the lives of the aged?” Albus wheedled. “They would be so terribly excited to see you perform again. Your grandmother was a favorite of many.”

Severus nearly bit his own tongue in outrage.

“Last year, you degenerate old codger, you had me in a catsuit and some reprobate kept yelling ‘show us your arse then, darling’.” He hoped his scathing tone would singe the old arsehole’s beard off.

“Douglas Harriot went off to his next great adventure this December last,” Albus explained hurriedly, sensing his moment. “He won’t be in the audience to trouble you. And it is for charity.”

Severus favored him with the stink eye that sent most students scarpering for the hall before detentions went flying.

“I’m sure you’re very frightening, dear boy. Not one of us wonders how you keep your more vivacious students in check. I suppose I could manage to find an extra free weekend for you each term and…seven more free evenings this year?”

“What do you have in mind?” Severus sighed.

“There was a really splendid scene in a show on the telly that I saw with Cecilia and Deidre the last time I went round for tea…you’re not adverse to cross-casting, are you?”

———

Which was how Severus found himself seven weeks later, crossing the stage in the Jolly Jents Revue (all proceeds to go to the Aged Alchemists Fund) while wearing a flame-colored velvet corset (with matching and spangled pants) and singing:

Cherry ripe, Cherry ripe

Ripe I cry…

He tossed a long curl over his shoulder and hoped against hope that the pompadour they’d swooped his front hair into would hold. It had to last at least through You’d Be Surprised, Sister Susie’s Sewing Shirts for Soldiers and The Blues My Naughty Sweetie Gives to Me.

The extra free weekends would be worth it.

“Show us your arse then, darling!”

For example, he could use one to murder Lucius Malfoy.

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 02:07 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

Why is my favorite genre of fic “Much to his consternation, people want to wrap Severus up in blankets and spoil him”?

Hubert Prewett, Sr., having seen him for 5 minutes is poking me that he’d very much like to get to know the sarky arsehole better.

Lucius and Narcissa keep being solicitous and worried. “Oh yes, he’s a bit delicate. His lungs you know. Grew up in one of those wretched industrial cities with bad air and the most atrocious smog.” (Lucius will explain to anyone who stands still for 30 seconds). Narcissa frets about warm enough underclothes and drafts.

Minerva wants him to have a nap and a nice cup of tea.

His 1983 7th year students are conspiring and a few of them are knitting or crocheting blankets as fast as they can work around NEWT prep.

And Albus worries about cold and damp feet. Can be injurious, you know, cold feet. Lead to all sorts of colds. Pneumonia, even.

Pomfrey keeps trying to offer him some strengthening broth.

Honestly, he’s about to leave the castle altogether if one more person offers him a warm anything.

1. Sirius went for name recognition based on evil and criminality and just hoped Harry never did the math (most likely).

2. Bella failed her NEWTs for fifteen years running and was the oldest student to leave Hogwarts when she finally passed. Bella’s NEWTs remain a Slytherin Common Room joke.

3. Bella was one of those old students who popped up ‘for a chat’ every chance she got. Until it became known she was a marked Death Eater and banned from the school. She couldn’t be before because, as Sprout said, you couldn’t ban her for having objectionable political views. You’d have to ban half the student body in that case.

4. Bella, bored as Society Wife, started a literary salon in Hogsmeade. Sirius deeply distrusts anyone who likes books that much. And she wouldn’t let him join, the harpy.

5. Slytherin Book Club.

6. Slytherin Tea Tasters Club, Hogsmeade Auxiliary.

7. Slytherin Old Students Society meetings always took place in Hogsmeade. On the weekends students were allowed to visit. So convenient, really.

8. At the urging of Narcissa, she gave Severus etiquette and piano lessons. They mostly devolved into shouting matches, but it gave Narcissa a break.

I wrote this a while ago on the YouTube channel Ultimate Fashion History, but wanted to pull it into a separate post. Because I’m petty and bad information sends me B.E.C. Also I spent most of today trying to find the post (posted as a reply last summer when I apparently forgot to tag it).

Because I’m kind of a masochist, I watched the 1920s one. Now, I’m not an expert and I’ve just started getting more into the 20s for both research and sewing, but it was…not great. Also, she’s snide.

For a video purporting to be about fashion history, I got about 10 minutes of actual fashion history. Out of about a half hour. She spent more time on bios of three film stars, what Art Deco is, and showing modern interpretations of the 1920s.

Although, she clearly likes the 20s more (goes on about modernity and finally being able to move!), so that…actually didn’t make it easier to watch. I was annoyed at the subtle digs at the past.

Issues I Noticed

1. Spoke as if all women in the 20s used makeup on the regular. Didn’t differentiate at all between what you might see in a city and a more rural area. Was also quite judgy about makeup styles and possibly incorrect on some points. I have to look.

Ignored anything older women may have worn.

2. Spoke as if all women bobbed their hair. No mention of other styles. No mention of men or older women.

3. Keeps showing modern runway and fashion interpretations of the 20s.

4. Described the ideal body type as ‘short and squat/square’. Used a pic of a 20s Miss America whose measurements belied that claim. She had a 9 inch difference between her waist and hip and was 5'6". It 5'6" now short? Is a 9 inch hip to waist differential now square?

5. Claims that the 20s are the first time the arm has been fully bare (while showing an image with a short cap sleeve) since Ancient Greece. Clearly has an advanced case of Victorian Ballgown Bodice Blindness.

6. Claims that women wore cloche hats to appear to have a small head. I’ll have to look this up, because I’ve never heard this one before. I’m assuming this is bullshit.

7. She does mention that there were very few Flappers. So, like, half a point there.

8. Have to look up if there were laws on women smoking in public. I don’t think so, I think it was just convention, but I’ll check. (No laws on women smoking in the street by the 1920s. The laws once on the books were rarely enforced)

9. Claims women keep crossing their legs in photos to show them off since they could now. Also sounds like bullshit.

10. Appears to use an image of a late teens corset, possibly a very early 20s one, when talking about what’s under a 20s woman’s clothing. The picture is kind of small, but it looks like the late teens version of the Scroop corset.

No mention of slips, teddies, bloomers, or anything else. Apparently women wore a bandeau and Mrs. Dewitt-Bucater’s corset from Titanic and a dress.

No mentions of the difference between a young woman’s underclothes and an older woman’s.

11. Claims metallics were completely new and never seen before. Possibly connects that to beading, but I’m not positive. Has a bad habit of jumping topics.

12. Never mentions knitwear.

13. Claims Chanel was the most brilliant designer ever (seriously, when Vionnet also existed?). Does mention her collaboration during WW2. And no, Chanel did not design the first clothing women could both be stylish and work in.

14. Seems to talk mostly about the fads and very fashionable clothes. Ignores the early 20s and focuses more on the mid-to-late 20s. Still doesn’t mention knitwear. Or what fabrics were used. Or innovations in fabric tech. Art silk, anyone?

What did people wear at home? She’s certainly not going to tell you.

15. Uses some street photos of actual people, but leans very heavily on photos of film stars and modern interpretations from runway shows and fashion shoots (reiterated because I hate this so much).

16. Implies we see more men’s hats in the crowd for Valentino’s wake because they were gay. (This is the point my fitness tracker suggested I take 2 minutes to breathe).

17. Barely mentions Egyptomania because she covered it in the Ancient Egypt video. It got maybe a minute. Thanks, let me just torture myself some more for what’s likely misinformation.

18. Called Jazz ‘crazy music no one had ever heard before’, completely ignoring that Jazz grew from Ragtime. (Any music historians feel free to correct me here…about the birth of Jazz, not the 'crazy music’ comment. It was and is glorious music.)

19. Claims the 1929 stock market crash changed fashion overnight when we can see hemlines dropping before that. Also, fashion didn’t change that drastically from 1929 to 1930. Those changes started early in '29.

20. Did give a nice bio of Josephine Baker, touching on her service as a spy in WW2 and her work in the Civil Rights movement in the US. While nice, this is not 1920s fashion history.

21. ETA: Barely talks about menswear. She could have done a while separate half hour just on men’s trousers in the 20s.

22. ETA2: Doesn’t touch on the rise in home sewing in the period due to simplified shapes, etc.

If anyone knows more than me, feel free to correct anything. Honestly, if I were her student I’d ask for a refund from my university. I learned nothing new and her snide implication about the men at Valentino’s wake was both rude and unnecessary.

Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries, ahistorical constant wearing of trousers by Miss Fisher aside, does a better job of showing what women were wearing in the late 20s

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 02:02 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

This is like, the pettiest thing on the planet, but it drives me bonkers when people put together an aesthetic Slytherin moodboard and there’s an image of a teacup with milky tea in it WITH A TEABAG STILL IN THE CUP.

Who in the hell leaves a teabag in the cup that long? And a teacup, too! Teabags aren’t meant for that size cup unless you enjoy tasting only tannins and sadness.

You do not want to taste only tannins and sadness.

And I don’t think the WW even has teabag technology, potentially.

Posh tea, like the kind Slytherins drink (and you know those posh bedsteads still ask each other if they’d like China tea or Indian) is loose leaf, brewed in a warmed pot for no more than 5 minutes (tannins and sadness, remember). It is served in those lovely cups with or without milk (possibly with a thin slice of lemon if we’re feeling extra fancy or cherry preserves if we’re having a Russian sort of day), sometimes with extra hot water available if you have a weak constitution and can’t handle properly brewed tea.

Half the time the kind of tea they would drink doesn’t even need milk.

Just, no teabags.

Also, most teabags in England don’t have strings. You fish them out with a spoon or your fingers (there’s a reason I have asbestos fingertips at this point in my life) like God intended.

Hermione Granger once terrorized the entire Great Hall by drinking 10 cups of Yorkshire Gold (strong enough to trot a mouse on!) before an exam. Dean Thomas was fairly certain she could see into a different dimension

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 01:45 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

Because I had this thought and now everyoe needs to know:

What if the WW upper class instrument wasn’t the piano? What if it was the accordion or the hurdy-gurdy?

Or…the banjolele.

Imagine, if you will, a small Severus just arrived in the Slytherin common room, having been brought up on tales of how elegant and refined they are, and the 6th and 7th years are hauling out their accordions (or hurdy-gurdies or banjoleles) for a quick practice together before heading off to bed.

He imagined something like a string ensemble, maybe. Violins were dead posh, yeah? But he gets an ensemble of accordions (or other humorous instrument) instead.

Dear Mam, (said a rather ink-splattered parchment arriving by first post the next morning)

I arrived safely and got sorted into Slytherin. Lily is in Gryffindor, but we promised we’d still be friends. Did you know any Potters or Blacks at school? I met one of each on the train and they were rude.

Lucius Malfoy has told me he’s taking me under his wing, whatever that means. Da wouldn’t like his hair much. He said to tell you Abraxas sends his regards.

I’ll write after classes tomorrow to tell you how they went.

Love,

Severus

PS WHY DIDN’T YOU TELL ME ABOUT THE ACCORDIONS!?

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 01:43 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

Is Snape sallow or does he just have the wrong skin tone to wear almost unrelieved black?

I can only think of Harriet Vane, who thought of herself as sallow while Wimsey described her skin as honey-colored. And of the comment from her dressmaker when she needed black for mourning the king’s death (Thrones, Dominations):

“It’ll be alright if we keep it off the face.”

Snape’s wardrobe, as described, would certainly be a trial for anyone with an inclination to sallowness.

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 01:36 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

Thinking more about house elves, because when are we not?

The house elves = slaves and only slaves, slavery is the only possible reading of their experience bugs me. House elves remind me more of a mashup of brownies (the inspiration) and the plight of servants before more modern times, especially in England (Being in service still isn’t absolutely amazing, but there are better rules out there. Whether or not they’re followed is another thing.).

You have your old family retainers like Kreacher who will never be let go because, honestly, they know too much, and your younger servants like Dobby, who want basic labor rights and to be treated like people.

Then, you have Winky. Winky was given clothes. Winky was equivalent to the person who worked in one house her whole life, made one mistake, and was dismissed without a character. Unfortunately for the Winkys of the real world, there wasn’t a Hogwarts for refuge. A servant without a character couldn’t get work in a respectable home where they would, hopefully, not be treated too horribly.

(no subject)

Nov. 9th, 2023 01:29 pm
wellpresseddaisy: (Default)

Nothing like writing up an entire Thing about underpinning 1920s clothing and then realizing that Mary Brooks Picken is THE ONLY PERSON recommending that kind of foundation/lining that late in the decade.

TBH I think she was probably correct continuing to rec using a foundation or lining for some stuff, but that’s just me. Extant clothing seems to disagree.

The Upper Class

The magical world’s upper class is comprised of families with great lineage and, in general, great wealth based on large estates. These families are generally not involved in industry, although some of that is changing. The magical world doesn’t have manufacturing on the scale non-magicals have achieved, but that’s partially due to the way a magical environment interacts with synthetic materials.

Some families, such as the Weasleys, are still considered Upper Class despite Arthur Weasley working for a living due to their long history in the magical world and the family participation in Great Workings (see The Weasley Scandal).

Many of the first families of the magical world received the honor, acreage, and accolades by participating in the Great Workings of history. (see The Great Workings) If they were part of a Great Working, then they have an hereditary seat on the Wizengamot. 

Guardian families were accorded the status (and land) of the Upper Class if they had not participated in a Working. These families watched the borders between worlds, protecting the secret of the magical community. Notable Guardian Families include the Prewetts, the Blacks, the Fairfaxes, and the Morningsides. All four notable families participated in the Workings of history.

Members of magical society also entered the upper class at later dates by way of the Sacred 28. While essentially meaningless, it conveyed some cachet upon those listed. The Sacred 28 tend to be the absolute crushing snobs of the magical world, unless the family was part of a Great Working. Then they’re just regular snobs.

Members of the upper class tend to dress from nearly all previous eras. A family will have a certain style they generally stay with down the generations. The oldest families, like the Blacks, tend to favor medieval styles. The Malfoys favor the late Georgian and Regency periods, with forays into the late Edwardian period for Narcissa.

One can enter the UC by participating in a Great Working. The last families added were added in the mid-1940s. They came from muggleborn stock but helped shore up the boundaries between worlds after the Blitz.

The Middle Class

The magical middle class is comprised of those who work for a living but who also enjoy a great deal of leisure time and money. Some of them may be extraordinarily wealthy, but are not UC due to family history. The top of the MC tend to be artisans of some sort - artists, musicians, inventors, etc or politicians elected to the Wizard’s Council. Those who work in the Ministry, St. Mungo’s, or who own a shop in one of the shopping districts round out the magical middle class.

The Middle Class tends to be more concerned with manners and morals than the upper class. Behavior may be more constrained. Members of the middle class tend to favor mid-to-late Victorian styles but eschew the more flamboyant versions. A cage crinoline may be worn, but only of moderate proportions. Puffed sleeves may not be of the largest type worn.

The Lower Class

Due to having magic, many of the lower class magicals don’t live with the kind of poverty seen in the non-magical world. These are the people who work in shops, restaurants, factories, on farms, in service, or as tenant farmers among other jobs. These are also the country people who make up the vast majority of the magical population. Most of the LC children won’t go to Hogwarts; they go to one of the smaller schools or to a day school. Most larger towns have a magical day school.

Clothing tends to be more modern, if by modern we mean late 19-teens through the early 1940s. 

The Great Workings

The Great Workings were feats of magic worked in unison by large groups, sometimes across the globe. 

The Great Working of 1692, known as the Statute of Secrecy to muggleborn students, was a global effort that removed the magical world from the non-magical one. From the 13th century through through the 17th century, global magical society saw a rise in violence against those viewed as or accused of being witches. Most of those tortured and murdered, however, were not magicals. 

To, hopefully, save non-magical people from a terrible fate, the global magical community devised The Great Working of 1692. They prepared for this feat of magic for five decades - devising the ritual, researching the runic sequences needed to shield entry points to the magical world, and preparing themselves - before they were ready to cast and chant. 

For seven days and seven nights, magicals around the globe joined together to pool their magic in one of the most difficult and dangerous undertakings in their history. In the end, the magical world receded from the non-magical one. The combined magical power created a perfect copy of the non-magical world in 1692, tethered at specific entry points.

The English magical community had several more Great Workings over the decades since, mostly to update their cities. London, in particular, was selectively updated over the years to include such places as the Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens and Almack’s, as well as the various city parks.

The Weasley Scandal

Septimus Weasley, known as a man who would wager on anything, managed to gamble away a sizeable fortune and go into a great deal of debt (the scandal). This wasn’t an amount of debt one might clear given enough time. It left the Weasley children with no dowries and what felt like no future (the Scandal part deux).

Upon his father’s death, Arthur discovered the depth (and breadth, and height) of the issue. After selling off everything not nailed down, except for the entailed land, he managed to clear most of the debt but had nothing left. So he went to work at the Ministry, determined he would never take one cent he hadn’t earned. Molly agreed with him. They supported his younger siblings until they could make their own way in the world.

They built The Burrow slowly on part of the old Weasley demense lands and rented out some of the farms. Much of the area where they live is their land - the Diggorys and the Lovegoods both rent land from them. Molly keeps the old home farm and orchard going and brings in a bit extra selling cider, jams and jellies, pickels, and other things. They are, slowly, managing to pay down what remains of Septimus Weasley’s profligacy